Three and a half days in Edinburgh

Three and a half days in Edinburgh: the Royal Mile, museums, underground vaults and castle, with a climb to Arthur’s Seat and a day trip outside the city.

Another of Liat’s conferences brought us to Edinburgh. We took Airlink 100 from the airport into the centre and walked to ibis Edinburgh Centre South Bridge - Royal Mile. Its location near the Royal Mile suited our walking plans very well.

After a good night's sleep, I walked Liat to the university. Usually, she wants me to navigate. So I put the conference address to Google Maps. Only when we arrived, I understood the problem – we walked in the exact opposite direction. Because it was the rush hour, Uber wasn't available on time, so we had to walk back – and more. This time Liat didn't let me lead…​

I started the morning at Greyfriars Kirkyard before the National Museum of Scotland opened. I meant to move quickly through nature and science and focus on history, but the displays drew me in. Three and a half hours later, I felt I had barely started. You could spend a full day here, and it gives valuable context for the rest of a Scottish trip.

The vaults beneath South Bridge were one of the highlights of our visit. We joined Mercat Tours and had an excellent guide. Hearing the stories behind these underground spaces transformed the experience. For a historical visit, check Mercat’s Historic Vaults tour on GetYourGuide and its meeting time. Choose the tour style carefully: a history tour and a ghost tour are not necessarily the same experience.

After the tour, we went up to Edinburgh Castle (which was already closed). Next, we went down the Royal Mile, exploring the most famous street in Edinburgh. Alongside a few significant sites: Churches, Museums, Castles, City Chambers, and more, it is mainly a shopping and restaurant street. Most of the shops sell Kashmir and Whisky.

​I have started the second day visiting three free museums on the Royal Mile: The Writer's Museum, People's Story Museum, and the Museum of Edinburgh.

After lunch with Liat we climbed Arthur’s Seat. It took effort, but the view over Edinburgh was worth it. Nearby, the Scottish Parliament stands on Horse Wynd, opposite the Palace of Holyroodhouse. We made a brief stop rather than taking a guided tour; those interested can check the visitor options.

We finished the day with a walk through the New Town, between Princes Street Gardens and Rose Street.

We also took a day trip to Luss on Loch Lomond and Stirling Castle. We chose an organised excursion rather than tackling left-hand driving this time, and our driver-guide was excellent. For an independent trip beyond the city, compare rentals on DiscoverCars and read the conditions. We did not need a car for our time within Edinburgh.

We saved Edinburgh Castle for our final day. Buying online was a good decision because the ticket queue was long. Inside, we still waited around half an hour for the Crown Jewels, so leave breathing room in the day. The view is spectacular. Book independent admission on the castle website, or choose entry with a guided tour on Tiqets. The guided option is an alternative, not a description of our self-guided visit.

After the castle we considered coffee at the Elephant House, but on our visit it was crowded and lacked air conditioning. We chose the neighbouring café.

So let me sum my experience of Edinburgh with some valuable tips:

1. Walk the Royal Mile.

2. Visit at least one castle.

3. Visit the National Museum of Scotland – look for Dolly.

4. Drink Whiskey and eat Haggis.

5. Walk the lively streets of The New Town and the Princess Street Gardens.

6. Visit the vaults and tunnels under the South Bridge.

7. If you're healthy – go to Arthur's Seat. Just don't forget to take enough water with you.

Edinburgh is a great city. Have fun exploring it!

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