The French Riviera and the Hanging Villages: Our Journey Between Sea and Mountains

Five days between Nice, the coast, ancient hill villages and mountain roads, ending among the lights and yachts of Monaco.

The trip in the French Riviera began in Nice, between the market stands and the Old City alleys, and we ended with the yachts and lights of Monaco. During the five days of the trip we traveled through ancient villages, visited galleries and a sculpture garden, drove through a crevice whose walls were red and climbed to the fort above a green valley. The passage from the coastal cities to the villages and mountains became different from the previous.

One day we took the train to Antibes and proceeded to the bays of Cap d'Antibes; the next day we were already wandering among the stone houses of Saint-Paul de Vns. Alongside the impressive places, we also remember the sokka that loves Nice, the crepe at La Garupe beach, and the simple dinner we bought at the Monaco supermarket. It is not every day that you need a special restaurant to eat well and have fun.

We were traveling in September, when it was still warm enough to swim in the sea. In the first part we had a nice day in Nice and we were traveling on foot and on public transport. When we started hiking in the villages and mountains, we picked up a rental car and moved to the hotel in Vans. We left in the morning and came back late, after visiting many sites, so we looked for comfortable hotels in a good location, with a good breakfast before setting off.

Nice: Start at the market and end at the sea

After check-in at the hotelibis Nice Centre GareWe went out toOld Town of Nice and the Cours Saleya MarketWe moved between spice stands, cheeses and breads, alongside flowers and souvenirs. The market was lively, and around it were many other small streets that were fun to wander. We didn't feel the need to plan every turn: we walked around the stalls and shops and stopped when something interested us.

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Later on, we tasted two local dishes: Sokka, a thin pastry made of chickpea flour and olive oil, and Pisladair, a pastry with onions, whose traditional version also adds anchovies and olives. Liat loved the sokka very much. These are tastings that correspond to a short break during the trip in the city, even when she doesn't feel like sitting for a whole meal.

Even though it was already September, the heat was well felt. We preferred to stop at cafes in shaded alleys, especially in places where there was some wind. During the cruise we also entered the church, dwelling on the decorations and the impressive Baroque space. It was pleasant to get out of the crowded streets for a short time and look calmly at the details inside.

For the evening we continued toMassena Square and view from the Belenda TowerStreet musicians and artists showed up in the square, and by the water jets children and adults were playing and freshening up. From there we turned to the sea and went on observation. The elevator was closed, so we climbed the stairs. From above we saw the city and the rounding coastline, and the sunset was one of the most beautiful sights on the trip.

After we went down, we continued walking along the English boardwalk. Even in the evening it was full of hikers, and at sea people were still bathing. It was a pleasant way to end the first day, without rushing back to the hotel.

Antibes and Cap d'Antibes: from the market to the bays

The next day we took the train from Nice toAntibesWe bought tickets via Trainline, and after a 20-minute drive we arrived in the city. From the station we went to the Old City and to the covered market, where vegetables, cheeses, jams and spices were sold. Liat tasted the supply at the stalls, and later we wandered among the shops and entered the church.

From the alleys we went for a walk along the walls, facing the sea and the boats. We liked this combination: you can walk around the market and the narrow streets, and in a short time get to a leisurely walk in front of the water. We wanted to visit the Picasso Museum too, but it was closed when we arrived. We continued from there to the beaches.

On the bus we arrived.Cap d'AntibesWe tried to get to the beach in a way we knew from old information, but we found that access from there was blocked in private homes. We looked for another public way and reached the billionaire bay. The water was so inviting, we wished we had brought bathing suits.

We finished the afternoon at La Garupe Beach, with Hugo Spritz, cold coffee and crepe with Nutella and banana. After walking through the city and between the bays, it was fun to sit by the sea. If you are planning a similar day, you should take a bathing suit and a towel even if you think you will be satisfied with a trip along the beach.

Out to the Villages: Saint-Paul de Vance, Art and Observations

On the third day we picked up the car we rented after we compared prices and conditions throughDiscoverCarsAnd we went out of Nice toSaint-Paul de VanceAfter two days in the coastal cities, the trip to the village and the walk between the stone houses was a pleasant change. We strolled along the walls and entered the alleys, where we found galleries, shops, and fountains. The walls were built in the 16th century to protect the settlement; today you can walk along them and overlook the surroundings.

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One of the places we loved in the village was the Polon Chapel. It is a small space with colorful art, which gave us a pleasant and optimistic feeling. We stayed in it for a few minutes, but it was different enough from the other churches we visited to make an impression.

Before we left the village we bought a sandwich, and from there we continued toThe Mag FoundationHere we especially enjoyed the sculpture garden: we walked through the trees and the works, stopped to observe and photographed. We also visited the showrooms, but we liked the garden more. It is worth dedicating time to itself.

The next station wasTourette-sur-LoupWe wandered the alleys, entered the church, and stopped to look at the view. After the galleries and the sculpture garden, we enjoyed simply walking around the village without looking for a particular site.

From there we went toSaut du Loup FallsA short stop in front of the water running through the rocks. The entry machine only got coins, and we used a nearby store to get a euro coin. This was one of the times a little cash would have saved us a little fuss.

The village day ended inGordonWe passed between the stone houses and the candy and jam shops, and continued to the observation deck at the edge of the village. From there, we had a wide view, far beyond the slopes below. After a day of traveling and wandering, it was a successful stop before the trip to the hotel in Vance.

From Evans to Chiance Creek and the Antarebo Fortress

The first night atVanceWe spent time in the city, eating at the L’Ambuscade grill restaurant. The food was delicious and the price was right for us. In the morning we went back for a walk in the Old City. We hoped to find a food market, but because of an event that took place there were only a few small stalls.

In the cathedral, we visited to see the mosaic of Chagall, which depicts Moses being carried away from the water. Alongside the mosaic, we also saw ancient Roman inscriptions. It was interesting to meet in the same structure evidence from such distant periods, and the visit added to the tour in Vance also some art and history.

Mavens went out toChiance ravineThe road passes through red rock walls, the color of which is due to the iron oxidation within them. The river carved in the rock the ravine and the narrow passageways. We stopped for short walks in sections of the old road, close to the rock walls and above the flowing water. Every few steps, another small waterfall or a beautiful view into the ravine was discovered.

Later we came toEntrevoWe parked outside the Old City, crossed the bridge, and wandered around the houses a little before we began to ascend to the Citadel. The ascent took about 2030 minutes and was steep and strenuous. Inside the fort we passed through the guard rooms and the prisoner cells, but the highlight for us was the balcony in the census room. The view of the city and the valley from above certainly justified the ascent.

On the way back we choseThe Mountain Road towards Col de VanceWe passed between cliffs, villages, and grasslands, where we saw cows and horses. The journey itself was so beautiful that it ultimately impressed us more than the observation we intended to reach. We stopped for sunset, with a view towards the sea on one side and into the mountains on the other, and only then continued back to Venus.

So and Manton, and to end an evening in Monaco

The last day we started atSo?Climbing between the stone houses and the exotic garden at the top of the village, it is worth coming early, before the groups of hikers fill the narrow alleys. The garden was the part we liked the most about visiting: between the cactuses and plants, observations were opened to the sea and to the mountains, and each corner offered a slightly different angle.

On the summit stood a fortress, which was destroyed in 1706 by the order of Louis XIV. Today, the garden grows among its remains, and it is possible to wander around, stopping in front of the landscape, and enjoying the combination of vegetation and sea. As we descended from the village, we stopped for ice cream and continued on to St. Agnes.

We did not take a long tour of the village, but we enjoyed the break and the view before continuing to Manton.

OnMentonWe wandered through the commercial streets and entered the colorful alleys of the Old City. From there we climbed to the cemetery at the top of the city. Among the tomb estates and statues we could view the houses and the sea. On the descent we passed through the church plaza and returned to the shops and restaurants.

This time, as opposed to visiting Cap d'Antibes, we had bathing suits with us. We entered the water and enjoyed bathing after all the walking and stairs. This is one of the convenient things about Menton: you can combine the same visit to the Old City and time on the beach, without traveling from one place to another.

Towards evening we arrived atMonaco and Monte CarloThe luxury cars near the casino attracted a lot of people who stopped to look and take pictures. We entered the casino lobby, were impressed with the design, and later watched the illuminated marina.

In the casino area we had trouble finding a restaurant at a price that suited us. We ended up buying bread, berry cheese and vegetables, and were very happy with dinner. After a long day of traveling and walking, it was exactly what we felt like eating.

It has been a busy day. For those who prefer to linger on the buzz or spend more time at the beach in Menton, it is worth dedicating a separate day to Monaco. Another thing to keep in mind: our eSIM package did not work well in Monaco. It is recommended to make sure that the package includes it and to save in advance a map and parking details for use without internet.

Where are there, and to whom are the hotels suitable?

Benes Leno atibis Nice Centre Gare, whose great advantage for us was the location near Nice-Ville station. The proximity to the station facilitated the arrival from the airport, the train ride to Entive and the collection of the rental car. We also had a comfortable time getting to the city centre.

This is a simple and practical hotel, which fit well with our type of trip. Breakfast was good, and the hotel also had a pool, but we chose it mainly so that we could have a comfortable place to sleep and go for walks.

In the second part for usLe FloréalIn Evans, near the city center. It also had a good breakfast and a pool. The hotel parking was paid, and during our visit it cost 12 per night. Just nearby, we found city parking spaces, which were free of charge between 7:00 p.m. and 9:00 a.m. We parked there and saved the cost of the hotel parking.

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The two hotels fit in for us because of the location, breakfast and price. They are suitable for those who plan to spend most of the day outdoors and looking for comfortable accommodation. Those who are looking for a luxurious hotel to rest in and indulge in during the day will probably prefer another place.

Our course in five days

This is how we divided the trip. We did a lot, and on the days of the mountain trips and the day that ended in Monaco we were on the move for long hours. This route can also be used for a more moderate paced trip, and to devote some of the stations extra time.

• 1: Nice: Old Town, Market, Massena, Blanda and the Promenade on foot

• 2: Antibes and Cap d'Antibes; back to Nice train and bus

• 3: St. Paul de Vance, Mag Foundation, Tourette-sur-Loop, Loop Falls and Gordon Rented Car; Lina Bevans

• 4: Vance, Chiance Creek, Enterbo and the scenic route to Col de Vance vehicle and short walks, with a strenuous rise to the fort

• 5: So, stop at St. Agnes, Menton and Monaco Car and Walk

Some Things to Prepare for the Road

For such a trip, it is worth going out with water, a hat and comfortable shoes, and putting in a bathing suit and a towel in the bag as well. We found quite a few public toilets and taps along the route. Some of the toilets were paid, and it is worth holding a few small coins for both them and for sites like the waterfalls. The taps are used for drinking; not every fountain in the village is a source of drinking water.

In the villages, it is also worth paying attention to the hours of meals. It is not always easy to find a place to eat a late lunch, especially on the day when you pass between a few settlements. We have planned at least one food stop, leaving enough time to travel on the mountain roads. A short distance on the map can take longer than it seems.

More details to help with the preparations we have gathered atDriving guide in FranceB, B,The Money and Payments GuideandThe Electricity and Charging GuideIn each of the place articles you will also find a more detailed description of our visit and more photos from the way.