Three days in Thessaloniki

We came to Thessaloniki for three days. Liat had a lecture at a fascinating academic conference about Film Adaptation at the Museum of...

We spent three days in Thessaloniki in 2017 while Liat attended a conference and gave a talk at the Museum of Byzantine Culture. The city is in northern Greece, in Central Macedonia. Its beauty did not overwhelm us at first, but walking around revealed its charm: the sea, food, neighbourhoods and layers of history.

A walk from Aristotelous Square brings you to the Roman Forum, whose principal phases date from the second and third centuries AD. Another short stop is the Church of St John the Baptist and its underground spaces, beside Agia Sophia.

The Upper Town offers the Church of Prophet Elijah, Vlatadon Monastery and Hosios David Church. The area around Trigoniou Tower and the walls provides expansive views. The walls include Byzantine remains, but the round tower itself is an Ottoman addition.

We enjoyed wandering around the market district, looking at the stalls and finding something good to eat. Modiano has changed substantially since our visit: it reopened after restoration in 2022, and its operator now announces another reopening in September 2026. Check the operator’s website for opening and activity information. For a guided introduction to local flavours, you can also explore this market food tour with tastings on GetYourGuide.

The waterfront is worth returning to throughout a visit, whether for a short walk between sights or a pause beside the sea. At the White Tower, we particularly enjoyed the view from the top. The present tower dates from the Ottoman 15th century; it was whitewashed in the late 19th century, before the city came under Greek rule.

The Jewish Museum helped us understand the rich Jewish world that once flourished here. Many Sephardic Jews arrived after the expulsion from Spain in 1492 and profoundly shaped the city. The Monastirioton Synagogue survived the war, but it is not Thessaloniki’s only synagogue today.

Pause at the Holocaust Memorial to remember the city’s Jewish victims. Jewish men were humiliated and registered for forced labour in Liberty Square in July 1942. Mass deportations to Auschwitz followed between March and August 1943. The historic Jewish cemetery was also destroyed in 1942; part of its former site is now occupied by the university.

Two walking tours with George were among our favourite experiences: one in the centre and another in Ano Poli, the Upper Town. The lanes, houses and sea views felt quite different from the lower city. Walking uphill takes effort, so allow time instead of rushing between stops.

At Tsitsanis Park, George played music for us, a small and memorable moment. These tours were part of our 2017 visit; check which walking tours operate on your own travel dates.

We stayed at Colors Urban Hotel Thessaloniki, a hotel we recommend for its very central location. It was convenient for walking to Aristotelous Square, Ladadika, the markets and the harbour. A car is not essential for exploring the city centre.